How fast will it go?
It is a 128-volt conversion; top speed is 67 mph.  Speed is related to weight, aerodynamics, tire friction, and most
importantly, battery pack voltage.  The higher the rpm at which the motor spins= higher vehicle speed.  Acceleration (torque) is related to battery current.  A 128-volt conversion of a sporty car like the Porsche 914 will have a top speed around 85 mph, and a dedicated, purpose-built EV race car will top 100-200 mph.
   Both Honda's EV Plus, and especially GM's EV-1 limit speed with an on-board computer.

How far will it go?
 The VoltsRabbit has a cruising range of approximately 35 miles, but that's okay, since my daily commute is around 10 miles.  In fact 85% of the driving most people do each day would be within the range of electric vehicles.  In Oregon winters, my range is further limited by cold weather, but still more than ample for my needs!  Occasionally you will hear about EV records of several hundred miles on a single charge, but this performance isn't yet available for the average person.  Those batteries either only last a dozen charges before they must be replaced, or cost  thousands of dollars. Sometimes the batteries are not in production and commercially available.  Still, I'm looking forward to Lithium Ion or Nickel-Metal Hydride for my next pack as the cost drops...
    Battery capacity for range is measured in amp/hours, or kilowatt-hours. The more amps you draw as you drive, the less range you have; (like gas mileage)!  A higher voltage car will have better range because amp draw decreases as voltage increases. The more volts you have, the less amps you use. Like a combustion vehicle, range can be improved dramatically by quality, low-rolling resistance tires with good air pressure; a good alignment, and good driving habits.

How long does it take to recharge?
 The VoltsRabbit takes between 2-8 hours depending on how much I've depleted the pack.  The first 80% can be recharged in 4 hours, it is the last 20% that takes the remaining 4.   (Think about how you pour milk into a glass).  I charge the car at home on a 110-volt outlet; starts off with 5 amps, trickling down to 0.3.  If I installed a 220 volt outlet & charger, I'd cut charge time roughly in half.   Most people drive during the day, and get a full recharge at home overnight.  Some people also plug in their cars at work to "top off". When gas prices spike, one might expect electric cars to become more common, then more charging facilities would be made available.  Fuel cells are currently problematic.  Fast charging, which takes only a few minutes, is a new development which isn't commercially available yet. It requires a high voltage source of 440 volts or more, carefully regulated to prevent damage to the batteries. The pack can only be fast-charged to 80% of capacity; more than that causes damage.

How many batteries does VoltsRabbit use?
(16) 8-volt golf-cart type batteries strung in series configuration gives a total voltage of 128 volts.  Original equipment manufacturers such as Honda's EV Plus and GM's EV-1 use 320-volt packs, and they oscillate the DC current into AC for better performance, including "regenerative braking."  They also use far more exotic battery technology.  Unfortunately this inflates the price of the car to $32-53,000.   This conversion uses a more affordable DC system, and retains the transmission to step up the motor rpm to higher speeds.   I only use gears 2-4.  2nd gear takes the car 0-45 mph, so to a degree, an electric vehicle is an automatic!

How long do the batteries last?
 Flooded lead acid batteries used in this conversion can last up to four years before needing replacement. Replacing this pack costs $1000.   These are deep discharge traction batteries, designed to power a vehicle. Their internal construction is different from the starting battery in your gas car.   Battery life depends on depth of discharge, care (watering), and charging. Batteries left sitting unused for long periods, or left sitting partially discharged, have shorter lifespans. The best thing you can do for your battery pack is drive every day; charge every night.

How much does it cost?
Conversion:  PARTS:  $7,800
  LABOR:  0- $4,000, depending on your level of automotive expertise.
  CHASSIS: $400-20,000, depending on what your conversion vehicle (called a "glider") is.
Oregon Electricity: $0.06/kWh, meaning an extra $6/mo. or so.
Maintenance:  No oil/transmission fluid changes, smog certificates, or tune-ups needed.  You do need to add water to the batteries every few months, and replace the batteries eventually.  The motor brushes last 80,000 miles before replacement ($40).  Either vehicle will need: brake repairs, tires, and wheel alignments.

What about pollution from generating the electricity?
An electric car is 35% - 97% cleaner than a comparable gas car, including the pollution generated by the electric power plant. The 35% number applies to states using a lot of "dirty" power, such as coal-fired plants. The 97% number applies to states like Oregon that use a lot of "clean" power, including hydro.
 These percentages are difficult to compare for several reasons. For one thing, they are based on new, smog-controlled cars in perfect condition and state of tune. In real life, most cars on the road are several years old. Their smog control systems are less effective, or non-existent.  Also, a gas car gets dirtier as it gets old or is out of tune-- EVs don't.  Often, the percentages listed are also skewed because they do not compare apples to apples. They compare all the fuel production pollution for the EV to the tailpipe emissions for the gas car. What about the pollution generated by extracting and refining oil, and transporting it to the gas stations?

What about pollution from the batteries?
Lead acid batteries are the most recycled product in this country. 95% of all used lead acid batteries are recycled. 99% of the material in each battery can be recycled or rendered harmless. Lead recycling is much cleaner than mining new lead, and the end product is cheaper.   When you go in to buy a new pack of batteries for your car, you will be asked to turn in the old "cores". This is required by law.

What will happen in an accident?
 As with any car, that depends on how well it was designed and built. If batteries are properly enclosed and contained, they will not "fly around" or crush the passenger compartment.  Battery acid is not terribly dangerous. It is a very dilute solution  and does no harm if washed off reasonably quickly. It is contained in many small containers (cells) in the car, with only a little fluid in each one. You would have to cut the pack in half to have an extensive spill. Most gas cars also have a lead acid battery, sitting right in the front corner, with minimal restraint and no containment. This is the first part of the car to be crushed in an accident, yet battery acid is not even mentioned as a problem in gas car crashes.  Still, I carry baking soda to neutralize it, not a fire extinguisher, as I would with a gas car.
  With proper safety features, such as circuit breakers and fusible links, explosion, fire, and electric shock are also unlikely. Keep in mind that unlike a gas car's battery, the EV's battery pack does not use the chassis as a ground. This means that, in an accident, sheet metal protruding into the circuit will not suddenly make the chassis "live".   All of these facts have been borne out by actual crashes of EVs on the road and on race tracks, as well as in formal crash test conditions.
 One last thought: an EV may actually be safer than a gas car in a crash, because the fluid-filled batteries will absorb impact. When gas cars are crash tested, their batteries are emptied of acid to make clean-up easier. At first they were crashed with dry, empty batteries. Then it was discovered that the cars did better if the battery was filled with water, because it helped absorb the impact.  An additional note: With the addition of lead acid batteries, my car is roughly 1000 lbs. (455 kg) heavier than a stock combustion Rabbit.
Insurance:  I have a stated-value policy with Allstate, so that in the event of accident, I would be compensated for the cost of the electronic components (about $7000), not the cost of a Rabbit combustion vehicle, or about $500.  It is not much more for the policy, and merely requires that I can prove the cost of the vehicle.

Why are you involved with electric vehicles?
I'm a middle school science teacher, and some of my district objectives are to teach students 1) how energy is converted to motion, and 2) how to evaluate various energy sources as they pertain to the environment, energy efficiency, sustainability, and practicality.  Electric vehicles also introduce other issues such as the geopolitics of petroleum import/export and national security.  Finally, as an educator, my goal is always to encourage students into high-paying, technology-related careers.  The best lessons we learn are the ones we live.  While I am a biology major, not a mechanic, I know a fair amount about physics and electronics, and I took a course on electric vehicles. There are a few thousand EV drivers who communicate with each other via the web.  I purchased this vehicle from someone who so satisfied with this vehicle, and so dedicated to environmental protection that they moved up to an EV-Plus.  Finally, my family was a participant in the '99 "First on the Road" Toyota Prius marketing test driving.  The Prius was actually a "hybrid" of both electric and combustion technologies.

    In summary, I've spent more time and money on Rabbit hardware than the components which make it an electric vehicle.  I grin when I pass gas stations, and I'm proud to do my part to keep US dollars away from $audi terrorist$.  I'm especially glad to correspond with like minded global citizens via the Electric Vehicle Discussion List.  Finally, in Feb. '02, Toyota brought its RAV-4 electric version to sale in CA ($42K, less rebates and tax credits; previously only a lease-only option). I was sincerely hoping they'd bury recalcitrant and greedy US automakers who have resisted fuel efficiency requirements and have in general, produced shoddy vehicles while buying off US politicians. Unfortunately, by Jan. 03, they stopped the project, saying that even though only 28 vehicles were being built per month, and even though each had been snapped up, and even though there is a waiting list of over 100 people trying to get one, and even though each owner is exstatic about the vehicle, that the project was "not in their continued interest", or something to that effect.  (Or could it be that the reliability is so high that they won't make enough money from repair bills?)
I find it quite telling that Texaco bought off the most promising battery technology: Ovonics Nickel Metal Hydride.

Tips for potential electric vehicle customers:
-Don't go for "cheapest".  Is your other vehicle a Yugo, or did you pony up for a nice combustion vehicle?  Same applies to electric vehicles.
- Know your furthest regular commute.  If it's more than 35 miles one way, depending on hills, temperature, # of passengers, etc., you're likely not a good candidate for today's battery technology.  I've had days where I did 30 miles in the morning, charged for a few hours, and did another 15 miles of errands in the evening.
- Regarding the vehicle you're interested in: Do you like the body style?  (Or will you be sick of it in a few months)?  Did many of them sell?  (You may need to replace a smashed headlight or a door handle someday.  Will you find them at the salvage yard?)
- Are there "bells and whistles?"  Heaters are optional in EVs, but without them, your windows will fog heavily in the winter.  E-meters I consider a "must have," to gauge battery status.  You can use a hygrometer, but you'll likely discover the hard way what battery acid can do to a nice set of slacks.
- The 12V aux. systems in an EV can be powered by DCDC converter, but it sometimes doesn't supply enough current (headlights+defroster+wipers+heater).  Or, it can be powered by battery.  But the battery alone could go dead, and leave you with no lights and wipers-- not good.  The best conversion will have _both_.  But it will cost more.
-Just like a house total up the costs of re-upholstering, carpet, headliner, stereo, body work.  You'll have some people looking at it periodically, and you'll want to be proud of it.
-Remember the cost of the batteries, if they're going dead or are dead.  Chances are, if the car was sitting with dead batteries, the owner doesn't like/use the vehicle.

This car was the second vehicle originally converted by: Mike Brown of Electro-Automotive, in Felton, CA.  As far as I'm concerned, he did a fantastic job.  Controller, pack voltage, charger, and e-meter, upgraded by: Bob Bath

Good books:
"Convert It," by Mike Brown, the converter of this vehicle, or
"Build Your Own Electric Vehicle", by Bill Brandt

If you have additional questions, or would like to schedule a viewing:  Call me at 541.472.1115, or e-mail me.